by: John Lester Naguna
The Philippine textile industry, especially the sector of handloom weaving, continuously struggles for survival against the mass-production of cheaper, affordable, yet environmentally destructive fast fashion in the more globalized world.
The age-old tradition of weaving also faces the challenge of dwindling numbers of young weavers, mainly stemming from the stigma that weaving is the last resort for feebleminded-people and for people who do not want to pursue a college degree.
To counter this narrative however, the Department of Science and Technology National Capital Region (DOST-NCR) has opened a venue and a gathering to cater and know the needs in the textile industry, and to promote the Philippine textile industry with their exhibit called “Pamana Agham: Sinensya sa Bawat Habi at Hibla”.
Together with the DOST – Philippine Textile Research Institute (DOST-PTRI), Intramuros Administration (IA), the Partnerships for Sustainability Education (PSE), and Department of Tourism (DOT), the exhibition is a part of the Science Beyond Borders campaign of DOST-NCR that aims to use science, technology, and innovation (STI) in order to solve problems and open avenues for opportunities for our fellow Filipinos.
On August 12, 2024, the DOST-NCR, together with DOST-PTRI, Bureau of Jail Management and Penology, and PSE, held a virtual presser at Tela Gallery, DOST-PTRI to accommodate questions, issues, and share future plans to the public. One of the pressing questions raised centered around the high-pricing of Philippine textile.
“Kung plano po natin ito ipromote sa mga mamamayan, bakit ang mahal? Paano po ito maafford ng ating pangkaraniwang mamamayan?” one media member asked. (If we plan to promote it to the citizens, why is it expensive? How can our common people afford this?)
Director Dr. Julius L. Leaño, Jr. of DOST-PTRI answered, “Masalimuot po ang issue ng pricing… Ang binibili po natin ay hindi lamang sinulid na ginawang tela. (The issue of pricing is complicated… What we buy is not just yarn made into cloth. These are the pouring of artistry…it includes time and brain, the culture is there.),” he said.
“These are the pouring of artistry…may kasamang oras at utak ito, the culture is there…. Which is what we lost after we consumed mass-produced textiles that are harmful to the environment and eroded our textile culture,” he added.
Dr. Leaño, Jr. also explained that another angle of this is because it is handwoven. “At bakit tao ang gumagawa? (And why do people do it?) The reason why it cannot move to a machine is because the beauty of the fabric comes from the person that did it.”
If we want cheaper alternatives, he also explained that we have a more affordable thread called Philippine tropical fabric, made of pineapple blended with cotton, which all governments must be wearing.
“Certain fabrics (indigenous fabrics) just have to stay at that price,” Dr. Leaño, Jr. affirmed.
DOST-PTRI also addressed the issue of the dwindling numbers of weavers. Aside from the promotion, they also opened a new textile academy skills development, wherein DOST-PTRI conducted a nationwide search for 20 PTRI scholars to qualify for TESDA’s National Certification Level II or NC II.
These scholars are master weavers in their community and currently training to be the accessors of other weavers.
“There is a huge disconnect. Bakit yung mga tubero may NC II, pero yung mga master weavers, wala?” (Why do plumbers have NC II, but master weavers don’t?)
The DOST-NCR, BJMP, and PSE also collaborated for a program that will be launched in January 2025 called, “Creativity and Equity Through Accelerated Textile Technology Engagements and Entrepreneurship for the Vulnerable Sectors”, which aims to find how the vulnerable sectors, including Persons Deprived of Liberty (PDLs), will benefit from technology, especially weaving.
The BJMP has already collaborated with DOST-NCR, and PDLs are recipients of their recent training, first with paintings (showcased in the virtual presser), and soon, weaving.
“If all jail facilities get trained, they (PDLs) will receive additional skills and additional livelihoods when they return to their communities,” JCSupt Clint Russel A. Tangeres said.
He also called for more programs that will support the persons deprived of liberty or PDLs in their reintegration, which can lessen the recidivism rates.
(Recidivism is one of the most fundamental concepts in criminal justice. It refers to a person’s relapse into criminal behavior, often after the person receives sanctions or undergoes intervention for a previous crime.)
The upcoming Pamana Agham: Sinensya sa Bawat Habi at Hibla will also have a station for the creatives called Tiny Thread Talk, a weaving workshop for the youth that aims to support the local industry of weaving in the current and upcoming generations.
A master weaver from Sagada will facilitate the workshop. While students from PSE will mostly attend, Tiny Thread Talk is open for ages 9 to 18 and slots are open to the public.
Aside from Tiny Thread Talk, the first day of the Pamana Agham: Sinensya sa Bawat Habui at Hibla event will also have Ang Pamanang Habi, which will showcase clothes from the collection of PTRI in their KatHABI PTFs Reimagined and PSE Sustainable Fashion Show.
The public is also encouraged to visit the KatHABI Textile Innovation Exhibit, TechnoBazaar, and consult experts in the S&T Roving Clinic. The aforementioned artworks made by PDLs will also be auctioned in the Sining Siyensiya showcase.
On August 29, there will be TelaHanga wherein DOST-NCR will showcase their technology and innovation to ensure the sustainable supply of local fabrics in the Philippines.
For more information, visit the official page of DOST-NCR: https://www.facebook.com/dost.ncr.
We hope to see you in this year’s Pamana Agham of DOST-NCR, and let’s learn more about the science, innovation, and culture of the textile industry together! (JLN/PIA-NCR)
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